Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Wednesday, February 6, 2013
Monday, July 16, 2012
Everything Bad for You Tastes Delicious
Gerry Dryansky, who wrote this appetizing, evocative, eccentric paean to Gallic gastronomy with his wife and literary collaborator, Joanne, apparently didn’t get the memo. He hasn’t heard that cream sauces are poisonous, that foie gras is immoral, that cassoulet and choucroûte garni and tripes à la môde de Caen are fusty museum pieces best remembered, if at all, as indigestible relics of an unenlightened age. Unseduced by the new cuisines of Spain, Denmark or Peru, or by most of the culinary goings-on even in France (his adopted home), Mr. Dryansky apparently still thinks that traditional French cooking has merit, that it is something worth seeking out and enjoying and helping to preserve.
“Coquilles, Calva, & Crème” (meaning scallops or shellfish in general, the great Norman apple brandy called Calvados, and of course that deadly cream) is an evocation of the kind of cooking that made French food famous in the first place. It comes garnished with two subtitles—”Exploring France’s Culinary Heritage” and “A Love Affair With Real French Food”—and most of its pages are indeed devoted to such exploration and to expressions of such love.
This Wall Street Journal review is making us hungry.
Friday, July 13, 2012
Tuesday, July 3, 2012
Tuesday, May 29, 2012